Recipe: Donovan Cooke’s cold-smoked rainbow trout

Donovan Cooke is the chef and owner at Ryne in Melbourne's Fitzroy.

Serves four. 

2 whole trout, broken down into 4 fillets and 2 carcasses
Rock salt

METHOD Cover the fillets with salt and leave to sit for 20 minutes, then rinse clean under cold running water and pat dry. Cold-smoke the fillets and the carcasses for 20 minutes. Put the fillets in the fridge to firm up for around 2 hours. Set smoked carcasses aside for stock.

2 smoked trout carcasses
10 g onion, finely diced
10 g leek, finely diced
10 g celery, finely diced
10 g fennel, finely diced
100 ml white wine
200 ml water

METHOD Sweat the vegetables without browning in the olive oil until tender. Add the smoked carcasses and the white wine. Reduce the liquid by half, then add the water and simmer for 20 minutes. Allow stock to rest for 20 minutes then strain.

200 ml smoked trout stock
10 g creme fraiche
10 g mayonnaise

METHOD Place the stock into a pan and reduce to a glaze. Set aside and allow to cool. When the glaze is cold, add the mayonnaise, creme fraiche, grated horseradish, and lemon zest. Season with salt and pepper. Store in the fridge until ready to use.

4 cold-smoked trout fillets
20 ml olive oil

METHOD Remove the trout from the fridge and place it in a vacuum pack bag with olive oil and seal on maximum vacuum. To cook the trout, place in a thermo circulator at 58°C for 4 minutes.

Smoked trout essence
200 g daikon, julienne
5 g dashi powder
40 g salmon roe
4-6 red radishes, thinly sliced
10 g horseradish
1 p unit micro watercress

METHOD Place the daikon in a bowl. Pour in enough boiling water to cover the daikon and mix in the dashi powder. When the daikon has softened slightly, drain and pat dry. Mix the daikon and salmon roe into the smoked trout essence and set aside. To assemble, place a spoonful of the daikon and trout essence mixture on a plate. Remove the trout from the sous-vide bag. Peel off the skin and brush flesh with olive oil. Put the fish on the top of the daikon, and place a few slices of radish on the fish. Cut the micro watercress and sprinkle the leaves on top of the radish, then grate some of the horseradish on top and serve.